Guide: Different Types of Gem Cuts & Styles

Gemstones are one of the most exquisite creations of nature. Their brilliant shine and magnificent colors and perfect shapes make everyone get lost in their beauty – Guide to Different Types of Gem Cuts & Styles

The godly appearance of a Gemstone is however not very natural. Almost all the precious stones are enhanced before being sold. When a Gemstone is mined from the heart of the Mother Nature they are covered with impurities and are in very irregular shapes. The Gemstones are then cut and polished to make their physical appearance a lot more appealing.

A Gemstones worth and value depends upon its brilliance, the beautiful hues of vibrant colors trapped inside it and the perfect shape.

Over the years many tools and techniques have been developed to give Gemstones many amazing shapes with perfectness. The cutting of a Gemstone requires detailing and preciseness to attain perfection.

Here we have discussed why a Gemstone needs to be cut and all the different cut shapes of a Gemstone.

“Tumbling and Polishing”

It is the simplest and earliest way of enhancing the quality of a Gemstone and giving it a definite shape. In this process, a Gemstone is placed in a tumbling machine which moves it in a circular motion. The grit motion is done for a few days or weeks until all the edges and surfaces of the stone acquire a smooth and polished round surface – Guide: Types of Gem Cuts and Styles

Why is a Gemstone Cut? 

Gemstones are cut for many reasons; the shape is not the only criteria for the cutting of stone in different styles. One of the other major contributing reasons behind the cutting process of a Gemstone is that it determines the shining quality of a particular stone.  The simple tumbling and polishing the stone does not give it sparkle. For the purpose of giving a Gemstone the shining property, several multiple flat planes are cut into the surface of the stone. This is called the facet. This plane reflects the light and the phenomenon of sparkling are achieved.

The Gemstones are cut in a way that they don’t lose any of their chemical and their outer appearance is enhanced. A perfect cut shows the unique characteristics of the stone whereas the accuracy of the cut shows the brilliance and quality. After a cut, the value of a Gemstone is increased significantly because of the enhancement of quality.

Diamond being one of the hardest known substances is one of the commonly used gem cutter material. For colored Gemstones, a cutter made out of silicon carbide which is a man made compound.

Lapping is the preferred technique used to cut the Gemstone. It is the process of making multiple flats on the surface of the stone – Guide: Types of Gem Cuts and Styles

What is Gem Cutting?

Gem cutting is the process of cutting and polishing Gemstones to enhance their physical beauty such as color and the sparkle. It is often called as lapidary. Gem cutting is an important process that every Gemstone has to go through after being mined from their respective locations.

Gemstones are present in their crude form in nature. When they are mined, these crystals are covered with unwanted particles and their appearance is dull. Gemstones in this state can’t be sold or used for any purpose.

Gemstones are precious materials which are used in Jewelry making. Therefore, a Gemstone must have a brilliant sparkle along with a perfect shape covered in vibrant hues of color. The gem cutting process achieves this desired physical appearance of stone making them more appealing to the eye.

Gemstones Cuts – 

Gemstones are cut in different styles and with different cutters. Here are some of the most famous Gemstone’s cut which ranks a high demand in the market.

1. Cabochon

The cabochon is one of the oldest forms of Gemstones cuts. It is not exactly a cut as there are no facets made during cabochon. In this process, the Gemstone is tumbled and polished to attain the perfect smooth finish and shiny crystal. After this, they are trimmed. Opal and moonstones are a common example of cabbed Gemstones. Various oval shaped Gemstones such as turquoise, onyx and agate – Guide: Types of Gem Cuts and Styles

2. Old Mine Cut

It is another old way of cutting a Gemstone. The old mine cut’s technique is similar to the Mogul cut and the old European cut. The main aim of this cut was to achieve maximum brilliance. In this cut, the stones were usually tall with larger facets because of technical limitation of the tools. The old mine cut is still practiced to Gemstones to give them a vintage look.

3. Step Cut

In this type of cut, facets are added in horizontal layers resembling a set of steps. This type of cut is done when the main focus is to highlight the vibrant colors and clarity.

4. Brilliant Cut

The brilliant-cut is a complex cut that requires multiple facets being made at different angles to bring out the maximum sparkle. Brilliant cut has many variations. The different variations of this cut depend open the size and shape of the newly mined stoned.

5. Barion Cut

This cut is a combination of the above mention two cuts, the brilliant-cut and the step cut. In this cut, the facets are made in such a way that there is a cross-shaped pattern at the very middle of the stone. The appearance of Barion cut varies depending upon the shape of the stone this cut is being used on – Guide: Types of Gem Cuts and Styles

6. Rose Cut

Rose-cut is both cabbed and faceted. It has a round cabochon base and a regular faceted top. The faceted top has a triangular pattern. This type of cut was introduced in the 1520s and has remained very popular since then.

7. Divine Cut

The divine cut is a very latest form of cut. It is a slight variation of the brilliant-cut. The main aim of this cut is to increase the brilliance and fraction of light in the stone. In divine cut, the stone acquires a shape similar to a parachute rather than the usual trapezoid shape which is attained in the brilliant-cut. The top surface of the stone in the divine cut is flat and smaller as compared to the brilliant-cut surface.

8. Checkerboard Cut

In his type of cut, the stone is made to resemble a checkerboard. The facets are all made in square shape. Checkerboard cut is often paired with cushion-shaped Gemstones to give out the best result. This cut goes along well with translucent Gemstones and displays the intricacy perfectly – Guide: Types of Gem Cuts and Styles

9. Eight Cut

Eight cuts can be considered as an easy version of the brilliant-cut. In this type of cut, only 8 facets are made in accordance to the center of the stone.

10. Ceylon Cut

Ceylon is a mixed cut type. In this cut, the stones are cut from the sides. The side cutting of the stone is done in a fashion similar to the brilliant-cut. The sides are cut into steps ascending to the center of the stone.

Gemstones Cutting Tools – 

With the advancement in technology, many tools have been developed. These tools cut a Gemstones with such sophistication and precision that it almost looks like that the stone was born with such magnificence.

The quality of any Gemstone cutting tool is determined by the exclusivity it provides to a Gemstone. A good Gemstone cutting tool will best showcase the clarity and intricacy of a stone.

Over the years there has been advancement in the tools used for molding a raw Gemstone into a precious crystal. LASER technology is one of the major features adapted by the Gemstone industry. It has drastically changed the way Gemstones were cut and shaped. The principles, though, have not been changed.

There are certain features that a Gemstone cutting tool must contain, be it a modern tool or an old one. These are:

• It must have a polishing pad
• Grinder or a lapping plate is a necessity without which you cannot cut Gemstone.
• Angle scale which sets the angle for cutting tips
• The stone must be held at a fixed position during the process of cutting so for that purpose the tool must have a setting pin.
• The speed of and depth of cutting must be under the control of the gem cutter and therefore for this purpose, the machine must have a knob or some sort of faceting adjusting switch.
• A single needle tip. The tip can either be made of diamond, the hardest known substance. Or it can be made of silicon carbide, a man-made compound.
• The machine should be easy to use and maintaining must be simple a well.
• Lightning during the process of cutting is a need. The machine should have proper illuminating instruments attached to it.

A good machine never compromises with the innate traits of the Gemstones. It enhances the physical and chemical properties without disturbing any other trait – Guide: Types of Gem Cuts and Styles

How to Choose the Right Gem Cutting Machine?

Choosing the right gem cutting tool is a serious decision which should not be made in a hurry. A good machine will give you a magnificent crystal. If you fail to make the correct choice when buying the machine then you may be stuck with Gemstones of irregular shapes and dull appearance. There are some key characteristics of a cutting machine that you should keep in mind when making a purchase.

1. Repeat-ability

A good machine is the one that gives a perfect result even after being used for a long period of time. The same cut must give the same effect to the Gemstone.

2. Speed

Speed is how fast a machine can cut Gemstone. The faster the speed of the machine, the better it is as compared to others. It is important to note here that speed alone can’t be the determining factor. The fast speed must sync with the accuracy of the machine as well.

3. Accuracy

Accuracy is the quality of the machine. It is determined by how well a machine can cut the Gemstone – Guide: Types of Gem Cuts and Styles

4. Reliability

A good quality machine is reliable too. It will work accurately and precisely over a longer period of times. If you take proper care of your machine then it will keep giving you good results over the years.

Types of Gem Cutting Machines – 

With the ever-growing and developing technology, the gem cutting tools have also experienced advancement over the years. To say it in a simple way, there are three generations of cutting tools in the world of Gemstones.

1. The Jam Peg Machine

It is a traditional form of gem cutting machine. These have a greater speed as compared to the other two. But, it compromises with accuracy. Although they have fast speed, they take a longer period to master.

2. The Mast Machine

It is the most technologically advanced Gemstone cutting machine. The mast machine is generally used in developed countries like the USA, Brazil, Russia and many other technologically blessed states. These machines have high accuracy and give the best result in terms of clarity and intricacy. These are easier to use as compared to other tools and can be used by an amateur. The drawback of this machine is that its speed is slower.

3. The Hand Piece Machine

If the jam peg is far-right and the mast machine far left then the hand piece lie in them idle. It is a milder and perfect combination of the above two. It is more accurate and precise as compared to the jam peg and has faster speed when compared to the mast machine. It is easier to use and maintain and offers long reliability to the user. The stones cut using the hand piece have a brilliant sparkle and their colors are more vibrant and expressive. It is a perfect machine to be used for Gemstones cutting process and turning them into a product of brilliance and beauty.